Hiunchuli (6441m.) Peak Climbing Nepal

Hiunchuli Peak ClimbingHiunchuli, with Annapurna South, forms the massive south-facing wall, well seen  when trekking north from Pokhara. Huinchuli is the eastern bastion of this rampart,  with its East Face overlooking the Modi Khola, guarding the entrance to the  Annapurna Sanctuary. An impressive mountain in its own right, and not, as it was at  one time dubbed, ‘the eastern outlier of Annapurna South’.

Despite the relative ease of access to the mountain and the popularity, rightly so, of  the Sanctuary as a trekking destination, it has, like Fluted Peak, received little  attention from mountaineers although it obviously offers major new route potential.

From the south, Huinchuli has few weaknesses in its defenses. A precipitous south  wall rises above the untracked Chomrong Khola, seemingly menaced by snow  avalanches from the slabby, ice-veined buttresses above. The eastern flank from afar  appears the most approach- able; however, once beyond Kuldi Ghar, it seems far less  so. Out of sight, the mountain remains an unknown quantity approached by only a  few, through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen avalanche danger  from hanging glaciers above. From the north the mountain rises steeply above the  moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of slabby buttresses and an  ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted  ice that form the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in  an icy parabola from a small Col , from which a steep coulors descends towards the  moraines above the lodges at base camp. This is a feasible looking route, and is as  yet unclimbed. The mountain’s western arm is the ridge connecting it with  Annapurna South, and forming from the north an icy wall. It is this wall that has  provided the key to new things. Hiunchuli was first summited by an American Peace Corps Expedition under the leadership of Craig Anderson in October 1971. Although it is easy to reach the mountain and the popularity of the Annapurna Sanctuary with trekkers and climbers, the actual ascent of Hinuchuli is considered one of the most difficult among the trekking peaks. South-East Face Route: The route to base camp starts from Hinko Cave on the Annapurna Sanctuary trail. After establishing the first camp somewhere  above the valley floor a further 2 camps are necessary to make it to the top.  Although not technically extreme this route is exposed to rock fall dangers and is a  complicated route-finding experience. North-West Face Route: The ascent by the  North-West Face has been attempted only by a very few climbers and not always  successfully. The exact route is not well known. The approach is from the Annapurna  Base Camp in the Sanctuary and a further 2 camps may be necessary to complete  this not so well known ascent.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel
Day 02: Free day or sightseeing around Kathmandu valley
Day 03: Drive to Pokhara (850m). Hotel
Day 04: Drive to Birethanti, - Tirkhedhunga (1577m)
Day 05: Tirkhedhunga - Ghorepani (2855m)
Day 06: Sunrise from Poon Hill - Tadapani (2595m)
Day 07: Tadapani- Chhomrong (1950m)
Day 08: Chomrong - Dovan (2720m)
Day 09: Dovan - Machhapuchhre base camp (3700m)
Day 10: Acclimatization day; Trek to Annapurna
Day 11: Acclimatization day - Trek to Hinko Cave
Day 12: Hike to base camp (4100m)
Day 13: Climb to high camp (4900m)
Day 14: Higher Camp (5500m)
Day 15: Climb to summit (6441m) and back to base camp
Day 16: Base camp - Dovan (2720)
Day 17: Dovan - Jhinu Danda (1600m)
Day 18: Jhinu to Tolkha (1700m)
Day 19: Tolkha - Dhampus Phedi drive to Pokhara
Day 20: Drive to Kathmandu (1350m)
Day 21: Free day or shopping
Day 22: Drive to Airport for flying your own destination

The cost includes the following services:

  • Airport pick up & drop
  • Peak climbing guide
  • Trek guide & ast guide Cook, ast cook, other trek crews & porters
  • Insurance, lodging, food & allowance to your trek crews
  • Tent & mattress
  • All meals as per itinerary
  • Land transportation as per itinerary
  • Accommodation in cities as per itinerary
  • Trek permit, national park fee & peak permit fee

Cost does not include:

  • International airfares & war insurance
  • The cost of personal items like laundry & all kind of soft & hard drinks
  • Optional excursions
  • Cost of visas, insurance charges & passports where is necessary
  • Gratuities for services provided on a personal basis
  • The single supplement payable on all bookings where only one person is traveling



Nepal Peak Climbing

Best Season Max Elevation Trip Days Name of the Trip

Mar-May/Sep-Oct 6273m 23 Days Parchemuche Peak

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6091m 17 Days Pisang Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6441m 22 Days Hiunchuli Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6,501m 23 Days Singu Chuli Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5587m 15 Days Mardi Himal Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5500m 22 Days Tent Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6367m 21 Days Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6011m 18 Days Kwangde Ri Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6160 m 20 Days Kongma Tse Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6019 m 23 Days Lobuche Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5806m 23 Days Pokalde Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5896m 19 Days Paldor Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6420m 19 Days Chulu East peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6419m 22 Days Chulu West peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6491m 30 Days Mera peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6189m 30 Days Mera Peak- Amphu Laptcha

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 6189m 22 Days Island Peak with Kalapatthar

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5844m 19 Days Naya Kanga Peak Climbing

Mar-Apr/Sep-Nov 5925m 23 Days Ramdung Go Peak Climbing